A Very Big Trip in a Very Special Bus - Afterword

TCHAU/CIAO/CHOW

Basically this is when we sent them packing in various states of disarray from the night before, with nothing for comfort apart from Brazilian radio (that´s right, Johnboy also didn´t bring his I-Pod charger!)

Goodbye, goodbye...tchau tchau chicos, it has been amazing and we already can´t wait to see you again. More thank you´s than you can ever imagine! xxxx

Day 21 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

DAY OF THE DEAD

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 0!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Number of home-made Caipirinhas: too many!

Number of surprise birthdays: 1

Number of shops open in which to buy said surprise birthday things: 0

Today is a kindof bank holiday, Remembrance Day at home, Day of the Dead here! And it was in fact pretty dead around town. All the shops were shut in the AM which foiled mine and Vikki´s plan to buy things for Lisa´s early birthday party which we planned to hold that evening. Also meant all we couldn´t get all the souvenirs we were hoping to get.

Instead we headed to Ipanema Beach to get sunburnt, swim, drink beer, buy overly expensive ice creams, sarongs, corn on the cob, lot´s o´water please and some tasteless prawn cracker-y-esque tasteless things. When we were all sufficiently pink enough we headed back to see if the shops had open. Fortunately some had so it was full steam ahead to try and lose Lisa (in the nicest possible way) and buy stuff.

In our quitet time wisdom John decided that we should definitely try and make our own Caipirinhas. One can of pure Caipirinha alcohol (Cachaca run) was about 50p...we got about eight. It was definitely enough to send us over the edge before we evn left the hostel to go out that evening! Our first attempt looked a lot like pond water, which we drank in true pikey fashion! Enter Angela with the magic fingers (and the correct sugar) who shows us how it is done. Then we had Lisa´s surprise birthday, with singing and guitars and cake. And then to the streets of Lapa and maybe some Samba!

We lost Kit not long after this, it´s just like being at uni again! He went home or something :)

Day 20 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

THE COW PARADE

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 0!!!

Number of kms cycled: 7.5

Number of times Amy kissed Christ: 1

Today we ended up `spending some time apart´, its all for the good of the relationship in the long run kids! Amy, me, Lisa and John went to the lake, Vikki went on a woodland walk and Kit went bodyboarding in Sao Paulo or somewhere equally as far away.

In 38 degrees of heat we show up in Ipanema, hire a few bikes and WALK to the lake...still not convinced about the traffic in Rio. Every corner we turned there was some helpful guide to point us in the right direction, we must have been looking a little lost/a little out of place. We eventually got the lake after standing for what felt like 7 years at the traffic lights, suncreamed us up, and got on our bikes. We cycled, drank not enough water, put on not enough sun cream, found some more cows, found some potentially dead tramps...all in all it was much fun.

Back to Botafogo for some much needed showers and resting before heading up the Christ. We waited at the wrong bus stop for a long time but eventually made it there just in time to see Vikki leaving! The sun was almost setting which was lovely and meant we had to get the last train back down the mount...we ended up in a carriage with a school trip and the kids thought it was funny to take photos of us "without us knowing", Lisa foiled their plan and then they thought it was funny to take photos of us "with us knowing"!

I had a headache and went to bed...maybe one of the others can fill you in on the details of their evening out...the air con is working now by the way so maybe we will actually get some sleep as opposed to just sweating away our body weight.

Day 19 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

HER NAME WAS LOLA

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 0!!!!!!

Number of Itinerary items successfully completed: 4

Our first stop on the Grand Rio Tour was St Theresa and the unmissable little train journey. We navigated the very jolty metro and squeezed onto the tram. We think if you hung off the side you got to ride for free but what with all the sheer drops and crazy Brazialian bus drivers we weren´t feeling too confident.

We strolled and took in the view and had a beverage at Mike´s Hauss and then decided to head back down the mountain when we reached the edge of the favella. Then to the shopping centre so Amy and I could start our Grand Tour of the Food Court and then we headed to the Sugarloaf. It´s a good job we ordered a large cloud positioned right on top of the mount because that is what we got. The views, when the clouds parted for seconds at a time, were tremendous....our Look Before You Click philosophy had to be set aside for the sake of Flickr!

It was all very eerie which fitted in nicely with it being halloween.

That night we headed off to the Macarena (Maracena) stadium, the largest in the world don´t you know and watched our home team (The Flamengos/O Meu Mengos) vs the Sao Paulo Corinthians . The traffic was intense, sit down, stand up, the atmosphere was incredible, sit down, stand up, and despite the supporters throwing bottles at each other´s heads for seemingly no good reason, sit down, stand up, it was all very well spirited. Sit Down. Stand Up. We also were lucky enough to be sitting behind a man with the hairiest back you have ever seen. Our guide came to collect us a couple of minutes before the end of the match which we were all very surprised about until the stampede of 100,000 came pounding past us. It was drive-by jump in the van and away we went.

Since we are obviously still made of money we walked past all the plastic-pre-school-tabled-bars on the street and headed for the one with valet parking! You get a ticket, the waiter marks on it what you have, you get your drink, you give the waiter your ticket, you give the waiter some money, he decides whether or not you deserve change and how much, he gives you back the ticket, you give the ticket to the door-person to get out. A bit of a roundabout way of serving people to say the least with the added bonus of (men) being groped by transvestites when you go to the bathroom.

Day 18 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

"HOW HARD CAN IT BE??"

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 6

Number of MacD´s: one each please (they don´t do breakfast you know!)

Kit´s dreams finally came true and MacDs was on the menu for breakfast and off we set for Rio...for the first time ever it was almost a race (amongst us girls) to get in the sixth `nomination´ seat which is small and spaceless and luggage falls on you continuously...but in this case (as we head into Rio...city driving...no road signs...a really vague map...) it is the seat furthest away from the Navigators seat! Johnboy stepped up to the task full of optimism...we all keep quiet! Until Westlife came on of course and then we `serenaded´! Although the "one skip a day" rule went out the window at that point...we think Kit and John may have been having some issues that not even Mandy could help with.

After driving in the wrong direction down a one-way street we found the hostel and what we thought was a friendly gentleman´s garage to leave the special bus in. We were slightly alarmed by the 10´ bunk beds with three beds but soon got over that when we realised none of us would have to scale the heights of the room to go to bed at night. There was another reason none of us were particularly keen to sleep on the very top bunk and that was because of the attractive pair of gold undies we found up there....s´niice!

We ate sandwiches for dinner and realised maybe our portuguese skills hadn´t come as far as we´d hoped when we nearly ended up with four beers instead of the cheque!

Day 17 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

BANHEIROS BANHEIROS BANHEIROS

Number of funny bathroom stories: 1

Number of times we missed the clocks changing: 1

Number of hours in the car: 9

In the absence of a boat trip which as far as we could tell was the only reason to visit the town in the first place, we hounded Pablo at the tourist information for most of the morning and checked out the one archealogicalarchitectural wonder of Caravan that was the pink church.

We formed a new plan, let's get out of this town and head to Rio. We managed to get to Campos and ended up staying in what could have been a drive-in sex motel. Luckily MacD's was shut so we ended up eating at Mama Zaps (Crepe heaven), mmm, I'll have two please! Sometimes having a maths degree isn't overly useful, like when I counted the money we owed and then the waiter chased us down the street because it was in fact the wrong amount!

I think this was the day we finally got a clue about the petrol station toilet system where you go and collect a key for the door and take it back when you are done...instead of finding the door locked so you test the male toilets and when they appear to be open, creep in, in the hope of going to the bathroom undetected but then realising there is indeed a man in there and run screaming from the toilet!!

Day 16 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

BANCO DO BRAZIL ANYONE?!

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 8

Number of cockroaches killed: 1

Caravan here we come! We take the morning off to shop, sleep in, board and swim and eventually set off at 12 o clock. The route was pretty straight forward aside from the drive through Itabuna with once again a distinct lack of road signs. We ended up asking in a petrol station which proved a little more complicated than we would have hoped and they organised for a man on a motorbike to escort us out of the city to the road we were looking for! Genius.

Anyone up for a game of Troixieme Faixa?? How about a made-up letter game or a made-up word game?

We got to Caravan (Caravellas) and checked in to the 'best' hostel there was...with dirty sheets and cockroaches and six new complaining or screaming guests!

Day 15 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

SIX PEOPLE, NINE BEDS

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 0!!

The lack of sleep did not however deter us from getting up at 9am and heading to the beach where I spent most of the day hibernating from the sun. The beach was beautiful and we met a couple of Itacarian kids, Lucas and Gabriel who were very entertaining until they asked for some dinheiro for their time. We would have tested out the waterproofness of John's camera had he not left the charger behind (in the UK behind)!!

We went out for some more pizza in the evening and the waitress kept trying to set Kit on fire! He had a burning lychee with his cocktail but it never quite made it to the table in tact which the waitress thought was hilarious. Turns out the lychee was actually cotton wool and slightly less edible than we first thought.

Despite the abundance of beds, Amy and Vikki managed to get locked out of the hostel and since scaling the wall was out of the question they had to book into another hostel for the night...d'oh.

Day 14 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

VIKKI - FOCUS ON THE HEADREST!

Number of pot holes: a brazilian trillion

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 8

We took the morning off from the Special Bus since we only planned to do a few hours in the afternoon. We all went to the beach and although we went to different beaches, just call us Sunburn R´Us...Weatherman John didn´t even see the need to take his suncream to the beach that day even though the forecast was 30 degrees + :)

Lei and I managed to pur-chase lunch for six people for $R9.

First part of the journey is once again ok and we are happily lulled into a false sens of security. Just about then we hit the 50km long dirt track with pot holes in every which way of every different shape size depth...it was getting dark, there was long grass on either side of the road...I was expectiong men donned with loin cloths to jump out and attack us with spears, Lisa saw a lion (cow) and Amy was mistaking wooden poles for African Voodoo statues!

I am not sure how we went the right way since there were many forks in the road and very few (i.e. none) road signs, even the games weren't helping us this night. We came across a broken down bus...an omen you might think?! Then we got a puncture. Luckily, Lei-the-car-mechanics-for-girls-queen was there to rescue us, although I am not sure she would have been so forthcoming with the aid has the stray dog actually carried out it's threat and peed on the flat tyre we were attempting to change! Imagine, only 6km to go till we get to tarmac! Some ramdom man appeared as if from nowhere to offer his help which we skeptically declined, and the AA van equivalent was totally confused by us when they drove by obviously in search of the coach that had called them..."I thought they said it was a bus"! Fortunately you can't outfox the fox and we were back on the road in no time at all.

Next obstacle...can you guess what it is yet?? That's right we are now on the verge of running out of petrol! This really wouldn't be the place to do it either. We made it to the tarmac and think we have just enough petrol to get us to the town, whether or not that means the petrol station in the town we have no idea! Now is not the time to be wasting petrol, so what do we do? Drive the wrong way down a dead end roadwork site! D'oh.

In the name of saving petrol kit and John get out and go and check if there is anyway through to the town...this could have been directed by Wes Craven himself...it's about 11pm, dark and just as Kit and John disappear over the hill to the left hand side of the bus a strangely out of place figure appears on the horizon to the right of the bus. With four girls left in the car to deal, there is obvious dismay/concern/sheer panic! And this would be the point in the movie when the girl veers off the main well-lit road and into a dark dead end alley...Amy leans into the front to switch the ignition on to close the window and lock the door...at this point we have opted for shutting ourselves in the car and hoping for the best...she gets the window shut and accidentally puts the hazard lights on...HELLO STRANGE MAN, WE ARE OVER HERE!! Just as we compose ourselves and the man is about 50m from the bus, Kit and John start heading back towards the car, they can't see the man, the man can't see them and we are in panic mode once again. They meet in the middle and difuse the situation - turns out he is the roadwork sight night porter and informed us we had indeed gone the wrong way and the town is 9km away.

WILL THE GROUP MAKE THE 9KM TO THE TOWN? WILL THEY RUN OUT OF PETROL BEFORE THEN AND BE STRANDED? WOULD THE CHEAP VODKA BE A GOOD SUBSTITUTE FOR PETROL? TUNE IN NEXT WEEK TO FIND OUT....

(Next week) Heaven sent another angel and we made it to the town, to the petrol station which was looking suspiciously shut until a man appeared from a parked car and gave us some petrol...it was a little expnsive though so we didn;t get very much ;) It is now midnight and we still have nowhere to stay and haven't eaten for another 8 hours. We found a hostel and totally confused the man who was working,musical rooms ensued and we went from having two room swith five beds to three rooms with seven beds and the man was wandering between us looking for 'the one who spoke portuguese', that would be none of us dude! Anyway, since I think he was only expecting 5 of us we got it for $R100, our best price yet!

We went out to find some food (not holding out too much hope), Amy nearly fell down a man hole and a man who was innocently walking along hissed at a cat to scare it and ended up making all of us jump as well! Itacare turned out to be fairly closed but we did manage to find a pizza place which was willing to serve us despite our weary/stinky appearance! We eventually got to bed at 4am...what a day!

Day 13 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

LISA MAKES A JOKE

Number of ice creams: 5

Since we a living in the land before clocks we all managed to get up and ready for 7am without realising! Today´s plan is to visit Salvador although Kit went decided to abstain from the procedings and go body boarding...what? You have had enough of us already, I find that hard to believe :) So let´s say PraÇa De Se at 1700 hours?!

We navigated the public buses and luckily with our quick-slimming-14-stone-in-a-day diet we had no problem fitting through the turnstiles made for those token anorexic big bums that the Brazilian ladies have.

We discovered the city on foot, thankful to not be in the bus for a day. Cobbled streets, beautiful churches, the old city (where the cemetary was), Jorge the military policeman who regaled us with his heartwarming stories of how he hates Americans, once we had regaled him with our stories of not being American of course!

Despite rising fears we did manage to meet Kit at the arranged spot almost at the arranged time which gave us plenty of opportunity to scope out the weirdos in the bus station...it´s the same wherever you go! Oh, and we found the best ever ice cream shop in the world ever with the best ever banana ice cream ever (...one for the books there Madtin!) Once the gang were reunited we headed to Sao Francisco church, which was stunning aside from the angel statues with bulbous heads and deformed faces. It took 27 years to complete all the gold guilding.

We went to a bar then to a restaurant where Johnboy got a portuguese pronunciation lesson from the waiters...it must have been that french in a day tape you listened to before you came to the portuguese speaking country of Brazil that confused them Mr :)

On the way home we spent a significant amount of time bartering with the taxi driver over $R2 and ended up giving it to him in tip for his boy racer impression when he blared Sting´s I´ll Be Missing You (portuguese style) whilst driving us home.

Day 12 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

FIRST RULE OF THE SPECIAL BUS; DO NOT TALK ABOUT THE SPECIAL BUS

Number of hours in the Special Bus: I didn't realise this wasn't a driving day

Number of hours of sunshine left by the time we got to the beach: 1/2

Number of times almost ran out of petrol: 1

Number of funny bathroom stories: 1

Despite the smell in the room we did get fried eggs for breakfast and with John in our midst it is definitely a new day! First things first we need to move to a more suitable hostel in a more suitable area. This didn't take all that long and John eventually got over the trauma of being shot at (or the car backfiring, depending on where you were sitting). We decided to avoid the City Centre again and opted for a place by the beach.

Once we had driven all the way back towards town, we then drove all the way back out to where we had come from to go to a beach near there. In true Special Bus Style we drove past every potential food joint till we were in the back of beyond where there was very few places to get food or petrol...that's right folks, we almost ran out of petrol...AGAIN! Add a wander to the lighthouse to the equation and we arrived at the beach (our only ain for the day) at about 5pm.

Juan Chico the space saving genius brought with him three flannels instead of one towel...thank goodness he did though, it was enough of a squeeze without a sixth full-sized towel thrown in the mix.

It has been 12 days and I think we have finally mastered the art of ordering three meals and sharing them between the lot of us (as opposed to ordering six meals and wondering why everyone looks at us a little strangely and why we end up with enough food to feed an small third world country!) John has also managed to figure out where the men's bathroom is :) To be fair the sign was a bit vague! Speaking of the toilets, they barely allow enough room to swing an ant let alone sit comfortably on the toilet without your knees scrubbing the back of the door!

After a few much needed Caipirinhas, we are ready for our much overdue wandering the streets of a city we don't know looking for somewhere to go, lo and behold there isn't anywhere suitable and we end up going back to the hostel for some cheap cheap vodka and a little Brady-Bunch-esque sing-a-long!

Day 11 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

D-DAY IV - WHAT A DAY!

Number of hours in the Special Bus: Once again a lot more than we had envisaged

Mosquito bite status: Lisa has been bitten on the eye

Weight-loss: 14 stone, IN A DAY!

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 14

Hopes are high as we set off to Salvador and I may even use the word excited. 650km left on ONE relatively straight road with few pot-holes. Today´s Special Bus time is spent making The `The´ List of bands. We ran out of money pretty early on in the day which made buying the essentials - lunch and petrol pretty difficult.

Fortunately, the moment when we ran out of petrol was exactly the moment we pulled into a petrol forecourt (only a little pushing was required).

Unfortunately, `Do you take Visa?´, `No´, `Parlez-vous français?´, `No´. The kindly gentleman said he would take our U$S for some petrol, although in hindsight I think this was maybe preferable to having five foreigners and their Special Bus camped out at his petrol station for the rest of the day! Let´s just hope we don´t have to bribe any policemen in the hour...optimism is once again rising.

TASK 1: FIND A HOSTEL AND SOME MONEY AND MACD´S

Falsely hopefully we enter the mindboggling one way system that is Salvador city centre. Another clock change means that we have 3.5 hours to complete our task and get to the airport to collect Johnboy, no worried maate.

3 hours later we have no hostel, no money and no Macd´s...to clarify, that is no food since 7am and it is now 9pm. We abandon task 1 and head to the airport to collect John. We all hate Salvador.

Task 2: FIND JUAN CHICO

Another hour of sitting in Arrivals, with no sign of a flight from Amsterdam on the agenda we start to wonder if we have in fact got the right day/time/airport/city...by today´s standards anything is possible.

In truth John arrived on an internal flight from Sao Paulo airport and was in the domestic arrivals as opposed to the international arrivals where we were. After 18 months, 28 days and 9.5 hours we are reunited!

Task 3: GET SIX PEOPLE, SIX PIECES OF LUGGAGE, ONE BODYBOARD AND ONE GUITAR IN A SPECIAL BUS

We were hoping to not have to tackle this task until we left Salvador but since the last few hours hadn´t really gone to plan it wasn´t much of a surprise that we were here. Instead after 14 hours in the bus, no food and nowhere to go we managed to squeeze everyone in, just!

Task 4: TO MACD´S

It´s shut.

Task 5: FIND THE POUSADA

Another supposed easy task, especially with maps and directions BUT NO! We end up driving round the suburb confused by the directions and the map. We seem to have landed in the red light district/Habib's fan base area and only managed to find the place thanks to some kindly Habib-er. Then we arrive to find that our room stinks of pee...nice!

Task 6: GET SOME MUCH NEEDED FOOD

The next hour doesn't really bare mentioning, all you need to know is that we went to bed hungry!

Day 10 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

D-DAY III - TROUBLE OVER BILL´S MOTHERS

Mosquito bite status: high although we are not sure what changed!

Actual Mosquito bites: quite a few, Vikki has her first bite of the holiday - welcome to the club!

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 13

Number of hours Kit drove: probably 12.5

I think we gave the hostel hostess the wrong impression yesterday with our late rising since today we plan to leave as early as possible and thus have to do so without breakfast, we drove past the lady with our breakfast on the way out of town!

Mission to get as close to Salvador as possible. With only one minor detour down a `scenic´ road (dirt track through a wood) and one major hailstorm when I thought the windscreen may actually break we managed find a Pousada (of the Parrot kind) on the main road. And have actually made a significant dent in the kilometres! I think our/Vikki´s negotiation skills improve after a frustratingly long time in the car and she managed to bargain the man down to $R125 for a room for five!

We ate some more pizza (this time of the microwaveable kind) and drank some more cerveja and were about ready for bed...we know how to live the high life!

Day 9 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

PLEASE SIR, CAN I HAVE SOME MORE?

Number of hours in the car: More than we had hoped

Mosquito bite status: low

We have our first real lay-in of the holiday and still manage to get breakfast...although our lovely hostess didn´t have any other guests to cater for so I guess there wasn`t much else to do with the food.

We visited the Secret Garden expecting a woodland walk and found a jungle-style obstacle course from the Krypton Factor and totally not suitable for our flip-flopped feet. We lost Kit and Vikki to that well-known artist Oscar who had no faith in our abilities to get to Salvador in two days! In the afternoon we decided to go to the much talked about (by guide books) and much advertised (by leaflets) Agua Santos. Surprisingly this attraction was not signposted AT ALL and we had to stop and ask many-a-random for directions (because we love to be reminded how much of the language we cannot speak!), we arrived just in time to catch Mr Incredible, Miss Sunburn Brazil 2007, some well-practiced strutting by some (what we can only imagine are) regulars and Juan, Amy´s new man :) Basically it was a swimming pool.

Unfortunately Tiradentes closes up on a Sunday night so we were stuck with fast food of sorts but in the next level price bracket...for what I can only assume was the plate and cutlery hire. They love their cheese, especially of the plastic kind and Vikki ended up with a feast of plastic cheese omlette with a lettuce leaf and not one but two slices of tomato...mmmm!

Day 8 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

NOT MEANT TO BE A D-DAY II.I - FOR EVERYTHING ELSE THERE´S YELLOW PAGES!

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 5

Number of times we lost the car key: 1

The instuctions failed in the first two minutes, over to the Yellow Pages Maps which get us to what seems like the one and only sign for the 65 in the whole of the town.

Five hours later we arrive in Tiradentes and the 1900´s which cobbled streets, horse and carts, cows randomly strolling down the road, ATM´s that don´t accept anyone´s card apart from Amy´s, steam trains and secret gardens. We find our hostel which requires either the tourist information or a neighbour to telephone to, to get their attention...knocking on the door the old fashioned way does not do the trick. We check in and have fast forwarded to the 70´s with green and pink tiled walls, a bright red fridge, a bright yellow freezer, lights that get brighter when you switch the shower on...retro huh!

For dinner we try and find the Italian restaurant, Vik is in charge of the map so put your walking shoes on folks ;) turns out to be a little too expensive for our tastes and we head back to the main square. We end up in a bar...in THE bar and get kicked out at some unreasonably early hour because they want to close...! Duschbags!

Day 7 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

D-DAY II - WHO IS ROGER BANNISTER?

Number of hours in the car: 12

Number of hours lost: 7

Number of funny toilet stories: 1

Another debate I am not allowed to mention is the `Shall we bypass Sao Paulo completely on our drive today?`...moving on (but definitely coming back to it later) we made really good time in the morning and had a comedy moment when Lei got stuck in a public Brazilian toilet! We are talking comedy sketch moment when the handle comes away in one hand and you hear the other half fall to the ground...luckily us girls always go to the bathroom together and did so for the rest of the trip after this incident, so we were all able to come to the rescue and take photos and laugh! It was looking like our options were to pull Lei over the wall or leave her there until Vikki the Door Fixing Genius had a go.

It was funny but not funny enough to get us through the next seven hours of driving around 1/8 of a page of the map looking for route 65. We hate Route 65. We ended up in Campinas (not even close to where we wanted to be), in an expensive hotel with some people patient enough to try and give us directions and with yellow pages - out of which we stole the local maps FOR THE GOOD OF OUR SANITY! Everyday´s a school day and we find out that although roads are marked as numbers on the maps, they usually are signposted as names - we have in fact been looking for the Dom Pedro Road this whole time and just not knowing it - probably drove past it a fair few times too :( In the words of Pink, Who Knew?

Day 6 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

DRIVING DAY I - EVERY POTHOLE HAS A DIFFERENT STORY

Number of hours in car: 11

Number of potholes driven over: thousands

Number of arguments over animal, mineral, vegetable: at least one per game

Today is the shortest distance we have to cover - 650km, we are heading to Morettes. The game of the day is Animal, Mineral, Vegetable AKA Janet Jackson/Harold Bishop, Bridges, Maracuja. Is a bridge a building? Is a bridge a structure? Is a building different to a structure?

We think we are driving over the worst roads EVER...(see Days 7-21) and it takes us 11 hours, d`oh. Have we bitten off more than we can chew? i find it hard to believe when we are five poeple who have been limited to a diet of cheesey and salty snacks for the last five days!

We spy the road to Morettes which is signposted very vaguely and only once - it takes us down and around a mountain on cobbles for about 20km - Amy feels sick, even the scenery cannot help. What does help is our 5* dinner with Mr Chipolopodous at his lovely restaurant and the oh-so kind people at the hostel we are staying in. Vikki gets her own specially made fish dish for one...well, this might be the last time she gets to eat you know! :)

Day 5 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

DUSCHCO DUSCHBAG

Number of hours in the Special Bus: 0

Number of arguments over the Janet Jackson/Harold Bishop game: 1

Number of countries visited: 2

We are off to Argentina to check out the other side of the Falls. We are on a tour and all cram into the minibus with the overly pervy bus driver who seems quite keen to leave all the chicos behind. Luckily Kitty morphs quite well into a squirly after the last four days!

We left Brazil and entered Argentina - yay a whole country away from the Special Bus! Santana became a topic of heated debate along the way although I am pretty sure I am not supposed to bring it up again?! Apologies :) We had a truck ride and a boat ride and hopes were high that we were going to see some Toucans. Sadly no, but the boat ride made up for it somewhat when it took us through the falls, under the falls, round the falls, over the falls and we ended up absolutely drenched...thank goodness for the sunshine that day! Even though it was like being sprayed with a hosepipe and I feel I had my eyes shut for most of the time...it was still amazing!

The rest of the day we walked and the sights just kept getting better and better! Although, my boots are clearly NOT made for walking...since they broke. It was a tiring day so we ended it with dinner and some sort of impromptu planning session on how to get to Salvador...in four days, surely not?!?

Day 4 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

¨KIT I AM LUCKY IF I EVEN HIT THE BALL LET`S NOT GET INTO THE RULES¨ Vikki Re: A table tennis match

Number of hours in the car: 1 more than we hoped

Number of ice creams: 1

Contents: Five people, 4.5 bags, one body board and one guitar

Today we are visiting the Iguaçu Falls on the Brazilian side. The day starts out raining but our tight schedule does not allow us the luxury of waiting around for good weather, we are especially looking forward to the open top bus ride!

So after the naked conga in the shower we head out to the Special Bus and down to the park. The unprepared of the group pur-chase their moomin style, very fetching rainmacks and we get the bus (thankfully closed top) up to the Falls - an awe-inspiring sight to say the least. The sun managed to show it´s face, as did Burt Raccoon and all the weird insects of Brazil. We got stuck with fast food for lunch since we were unwilling to spend $R30 on salad!

The late afternoon we spent trying to sightsee and went looking for the lake and the Dam. The Dam was shut and apparently would have cost us money had it been open?! and the road signs to the lake mysteriously disappeared somewhere on route - this is the new code for we got lost! Kit had time to p-p-p-pick up a guitar on the way back to the hostel (yay!) and we went for a dip in the pool, played some table tennis, ate more food and drank more Caipirinhas.

Day 3 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

PARKING TICKET ME UP PLEASE

Number of parking tickets: 1

Number of times we failed to realise the clocks had changed: 1

Number of hours in the car: Too many

The change of the clock completely bypassed us which meant we did not get an early start, we did not check out on time and we got a parking ticket - luckily it was only for $R8 which is the equivalent of 2 British Pounds. In the midst of all the excitement we almost lost Vikkis´s head in a car window accident.

We are heading to Foz Do Iguaçu which is in completely the opposite direction to where we want to be going but apparently well worth it...we arrive in the dark, we arrive in the rain and get stalked by a man on a motorbike who Lisa and I are convinced is a policeman ready to throw us in jail for not having much of a suntan, get your bribe money out kids! Turns out he is just a man trying to get tourists to go to his hotel! After two near misses we get to the hostel just in time for the all you can eat buffet and some much recommended Caipirinhas...Vikki assures us they are made from Rum made from sugarcane but we are not convinced is not alcool which has been sifoned from the Special Bus.

Day 2 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH JOHNNY WILKINSON

Number of hours in the car: Again, unrecorded so couldn´t have been too painful!

Number of times lost the car key: 1

Number of times nearly ran out of petrol: 1

The plan: Curitiba - the well-planned city

Some sterling reversing from Kit the Cat Man and we are back on the road. Next game please...´Songs with the word Rain in the title´, that´s right it is raining as we head to Curitiba, the well-planned city which turns out isn´t so well-planned afterall in light of everytime you want to go left, you cannot go left and instead have to turn right and head away from the very spot you are trying to get to.

Lucky my Dad taught me to pay attention when I was in the car because we somehow I managed to get us to this fancy looking hotel - this is the one yeah? this is the one in the budget section of our book yeah? Vikki the Negotiator worked her magic and landed us an entire suite with a shower as big as the entire bathroom we had in Santos, corridors, a bedroom AND reception rooms for almost half the price we paid in Santos! Santos Schmantos.

Rumour has it we get some sort of free coffee and snack at 6pm so off we trot...only to discover ´a snack´ is actually code for an all you can eat buffet of soup, bread, snadwiches, cake, fruit (I guess the All You Can Eat part depends on your conscience which I think I left mine in a free food basket in a hostel in Australia so...) At this point we start to contemplate if we are really getting such a good deal and is the price per person as opposed to per room??!! Hmmm! We discard these thoughts until later and go for a wander in the rain in search of some beer and wine. The lure of our luxury pad is too much so we get the drinks to takeaway in spite of the humour it caused all the staff and clientele at the cafe!

Kit teaches us a game called Scum, which to be honest still needs some clarification of the rules - but we did have fun ranking the five of us as King, Queen, Neutral, Scum and Kaiser Cheif Scum that night and for the rest of the holiday! Oh, and does anyone know Shakespeare´s surname?

Day 1 in the Big Brutha Special Bus

A JOURNEY OF SEVEN THOUSAND KILOMETRES BEGINS WITHOUT MUCH OF A CLUE

Contents: Five people, four and a half bags and one bodyboard
Number of times the car key has been lost: 1
Hours in the car: Obviously not a particularly shocking amount since I have no record of it
The plan: There isn`t one


The story begins in Sao Paulo airport where five friends reunite (Amy cries) and are introduced to the most special of special buses (Amy cries ;) which by all accounts runs on alcool (alcohol) and Kit has already scarred by driving into a curb - what they have curbs in Brazil?


Let the games begin - first up is the Janet Jackson/Harold Bishop game...a few rounds in and Kit throws us all off with his description of some half cat/half man character/from a tv show/and a book/there are four members of the gang/he has a feline name/it is from the 90s/he is not main character/actor was in a film after the tv show/BBC2/9pm...basically you cannot believe how long it took us to figure out that Kit was Cat from Red Dwarf! Let´s move onto game number two shall we? Interpretting Portuguese road signs - oh yep, that one definitely means they are strengthening the bridge. Luckily we arrived at Sao Vicente not long after this point and the game came to an end - the one thing the book did say was DO NOT STOP AT SAO VICENTE...I am pretty sure someone piped up at this point and said ¨Shall we stop?¨, a precursor to the rest of our trip if you like - ending up in situations that we have specifically been told not to do, but did we learn...Nao!


We find our chosen hostel in Santos which turns out to be very expensive for what we get...five beds in a small room with a tiny bathroom containing shower (electrics on display), toilet and sink with no divide so that one shower in it is a fight to not get soaked whenever you enter the room...a particular problem for us squirlies who had to squat over the toilet whilst hoiking the trouser legs up and pulling the trousers down and holding the toilet paper under the arm - I thought this was supposed to be a holiday!!


When we were all ready to move out we head to the streets of Santos and almost immediately get run over on the bike track running along the beach...oops! The first cafe we come to caters for groups of four people only (i.e. the tables), no vegetarian option and when you ask for water you either get a bottle that has been previously opened or fizzy when you wanted still - Parlez-vous francais? This may have been the moment it dawned on Vikki that she may actually be living of cheese Doritos for the next three weeks! We ended up in a typical Brazilian style restaurant where you pay by the kilo...this turned out to be one of our favourite lunchtime jaunts aside from the lack of tables for more than four people!


By this time it was quite late on but we managed to spend some time sat on the beach while Kit went boarding, then back to the squat for a planning session of sorts and oh, it must be time to eat again by now surely...Lei - did you leave any room for anything else¿? We wandered to the `Old City` named so because of the presence of a cemetary and we had some pizza at a particularly unfriendly restaurant who would not understand "pizza com atum"...with hand actions/pointing/phrase books and all?? I´ll just have the pizza with heaps of cheese then please, times five! We wouldnt have known if there was any tuna/other toppings on the pizzas even if we had been successful.

A Very Big Trip in a Very Special Bus - Foreword

First let me introduce the band - we have Kit on lead guitar and lead vocals (basically the charge of the group), Gem on practicing guitar and can therefore only participate in the one song, Lisa, Vikki and Amy on vocals (when Amy is asleep the others take over, when Lisa is peeing the others take over and when Vikki is flapping the others take over) and John on the triangle.


Just before we begin I would like to extend some advice for those thinking of visiting Brazíl; learn portuguese, do not bring more than four friends since their seating plans rarely cater for more than four seats round a table and prepare your stomach for an inundation of cheese!


¨When you travel, remember that a foreign country is not designed to make you comfortable. It is designed to make its own people comfortable¨ Clifton Fadiman


It is not likely that the next lot of messages will embellish this quote but hindsight is a beautiful thing!

Empujar Por Las Escaledas

Getting into town...be prepared for traffic like Vietnam, sitting on a train track with a train heading towards you and somehow not managing to hit anything...this kindof driving skill cannot be taught.

Moving on, we are now in Buenos Aires and it is raining and we have actually spent long enough in an internet cafe on a computer that actually works to get around to sending some emails which are long overdue. We arrived here and made it to the posh part of town and saw Evitas grave (oh, please let me have my photo next to that...in fact let me frame it and put it on a wall!) and since then it has rained but we figure we will be back here at some point so the lack of sightseeing has not been too disturbing. We have a friend of a friend here who has been very kind, i say he has been very kind...he did con us into eating cow's intestines the other night. I think i preferred the chickens feet in china. We did go for amazing ice cream afterwards though which did kindof make up for it.

Have been trying to recall my spanish from school but without too much success. In my attempt to order pizza the other day i ended up with chicken pastries. d'oh. Then there are the mosquitos who have taken a liking to Amy and me...and especially my face. In our confusion we couldn´t quite work out which currency they were working in Pesos or Dollars (although looking back now it is pretty obvious U$S15 for some laundry...naaa!) so we went to a restaurant thinking it was in dollars...ordered really stingily, paid for it on credit card because we thought we didn´t have enough money then left what we thought was a 10% tip but was in fact 25%! The waiter must have thought we were loopy :)

On the plus side we are back to paying a pittance for everything, including mosquito repellant, chicken pastries which you didnt really want to begin with, overly large tips, internet to pass some time when it is raining, cows intestines which you didnt really want to begin with...

We leave tomorrow at 7am...we dont have a bed for tonight and are going to use Pablo´s house as luggage storage while we go and experience Buenos Aires nightlife, enter Pablo (another one). His parents have been all too kind and say their house is our house...hopefully that means we can one day adopt their dog Flappy. Chip chop...must be off now.

If at first you don't succeed then skydiving isn't for you

We left Nicky, our jobs, our apartment and headed to Christchurch - we had no desire to stay long there so we picked up our Jucy Rental car the next day and bid our farewells...Lake Tekapo here we come. It was not long down the road that the scenery happily morphed into mountains and lush green landscapes...the New Zealand we were hoping to see. And it only got better...we booked into a wooden lodge-style hostel in front of Lake Tekapo and at the base of a mountain. The mountain was Mount John and we managed to climb it in 30 minutes, when it actually suggested 90 minutes, what can I say apart from Professional Mountaineerers! Even the near-on vertical section at the top was no trouble for our burning lungs.

Clint, a friend from Brisbane who was also in Lake Tekapo was jumping on our Road Trip Band Wagon for the few days so we sat around waiting for him to tell us something useful, like when he could leave and where he lived...since we had very little signal on the mobile phones this meant we had to go wandering up the road and round the phone box hoping for a bar of signal or two in the freezing cold. We visited Mount Cook the next day which we would highly recommend if anyone is heading that way.

We picked Cliff, I mean Clint up the next day and headed to the South Coast Road and the promise of some more extraordinary sights...in truth we saw the Moeraki Boulders (seems that the Kiwis have taken after the Aussies in this respect and are calling rocks on beaches tourist attractions!), the steepest street in the world in Dunedin, millions of sheep, some sealions (after some several hours of searching), Milford Sound and the happening place (if you are 15) of Te Anau. Turns out we have managed to arrive in the South Island in low season (which is only a small window of opportunity between winter and summer...I don`t know how we do it). Queenstown was particularly quiet which equated to us wandering the streets a lot looking for a party that wasn´t really happening. We did find the casino and I did make some significant profits on the 5c machines without really knowing what I was doing. We went luging and ate Fergburgers and Clint finally bought a camera after what felt like months of deliberation! We found a mountain to drive up (not convinced it is in the rental car contract to do so!) only to get to the top and not be able to see through the clouds. The surprising thing being that people were still managing to ski!

To bungee or not to bungee that is the questions...No is the answer, it just takes a few hours and one detour to figure that out...by which time I am ready to push Clint off the bridge without a rope and for free :) Next stop was Wanaka and Puzzling World which was very interesting but made us feel a little sick and that evening we cooked up a storm with some Lamb`s neck curry! Not the easiest thing to do - Ayms you are culinary genius. Clint broke his new camera...noone knows how?! We dropped Clint off in FrANZ jOSEF for his next job and me and Amy walked over the glacier/iceberg while he gave himself five minutes to decide if this was the town for him...turns out it wasn´t and he is now in Auckland. Anyway, back to the iceberg...we walked half way round before we ran into a guide who told us we had our spikes done up wrongly! Tip: if you do ever do it, do the full day tour, it is not as strenuous and you do not need to be as fit as they say you do. Our evenings were spent beating Clint at pool and watching the Magic Bus folk get it on the local club.

Amy and I continued on to, yep some more rocks...this time in the shape of pancakes and then Hanmer Springs for a soak in some eggy-smelling water! We saw the seals at Kaikoura before heading to Picton to get the ferry back to the North Island.

We were reunited with Nicky in Wellington (the land of Miss Dibby) and to celebrate both we did karaoke, not once, not twice but three times and I am pretty sure there would have been more had the DJ been more sympathetic to our ´Bad Singers Trying to Sing´ campaign! We saw the Crater´s of the Moon, Lake Taupo, Thermal Wonderland, the natural phenomenon of the Geyser which they add soap to to make explode and Rotorua - extreme sports, check. We launched ourselves into a giant inflatable ball with some water and rolled down a hill...Amy and Nicky also swooped. We would have gone to Hobbiton but the tour was a little expensive so we followed (private-eye style) the bus instead until it (sadly) turned down a private road, we definitely made it to the Shire though.

Back in Auckland there was one final Sunday Session in Danny´s...thank you to all involved and thank you Nicky for having us to stay...and thank you Diego for all your advice on Buenos Aires!

An Ode to Nicky Jones

English, Irish, Scottish, Wellish
Man, three day hangovers are hellish
That's what you get after a ten week binge
Oh, and a stalker with a (conveniently rhyming) surname like Singh


It all started in a place called ARTA
Where thert motto goes 'drink now, corro after'
Its common knowledge you work better under the influence
So a quick nap at your desk shouldn't really affect your conscience


It really all started with one glass of wine
Some bubbles then a vodka diet coke and squeeze of lime
That was the night Chief One Bottle was born
Err, I think that Carni over there has got the horn


Staying upright isn't so easy we found
Mud or tiles - we somehow manage to lay down on the proper cold ground
Now your stealing lines from that song by Damien Rice
Ahoy hoy, go stick your head in a bucket of eggy ice


Do you like Piha Coladas and Tuesday group?
Or getting caught in the rain and gloworm poop?
Let's not talk about the Auckland weather
But feel free to stand under my umbrella ella ella (sweet as bro eh eh eh)


It's so cold in the Globe it's so cold it's so cold
I need some warmth, anyone seen that nineteen year old?
Failing that we'll go to the bar of D
Do you know there's an icebox where my heart used to be?


Twenty-nine drinks and a Subway later
I'll inhale some nuggets as well thanks waiter
"Here's fifty cents for the extra sauce Miss Jones"
"You don't get things for free round here you know"


Everyone in - spirit fingers, hairy legs and Michael Jackson's nose
Taxi! Please drive us round in circo's to get us to the casino
Ding ding, bring it on black twenty eight
"Seriously - you're not allowed to take photos in here mate"


"I'm talking with the man in the mirror" "Who?"
You're actually talking to the lady in the coat of blue
"I'm asking him to change his ways" "What?"
We are intoxicated by the door "Get out you lot"


We've had the time of our lives and that's all there is to tell
Nicky - please enjoy your blockbuster one night rental
Make sure you tell him that Justice is com-ing
And we will continue this rhyme at our next gather-ing :)

Working nine to five

And then to getting a job...yip, it's that time again in our travels when money is running low and the NEED (not the motivation) to get a job is high.


Unfortunately our first destination Christchurch had very little to offer on the job front or the nice weather front so Auckland here we come! Not before we managed half a walking tour of the city, a catch up with Clint the pasta eating machine and a share in 3l of wine. NB. must remember that boxed wine in NZ is not like boxed wine in Australia, i.e. it is made with normal wine-like ingredients instead of fish and eggs, it is high in alcohol and actually tastes nice - a lethal combination and we had the hangovers to prove it.

HOSTELS IN NZ: The first hostel we found had a brilliant energy saving system where they had their heaters on a timer for an hour at a time - in the middle of winter?! This meant you had to get up from whatever you were doing every hour on the hour if you had any hope of keeping the lounge/kitchen/bedroom remotely warm, Amy and I went for the lazy option and just had two duvets instead. The walls may as well have not been there for all the good it did. We moved out.

In the first hostel in Auckland I managed to get the top bunk above a particularly rotund man who snored and shook the bed every time he breathed out - it was like sleeping on jelly. This hostel also advertised its presence of windows which we found particularly laughable until...

The second hostel was called the Fat Camel and didn't specify it's abundance of windows so when we got lumbered in a box room for four people we started to catch on...it wouldn't have been soo bad had a big, smelly man not moved in and made the room stink. This chap was also in training for the Snoring World Cup and I have concluded that bunk beds in NZ are some of the most unstable since whenever this guy moved I felt a bit seasick. Even the free evening meal and our new found friend Yoshi were not enough to keep us here. We moved out.

And now we are the proud owners of our very own dinky apartment in the City. Dinky being the operative word! It is on the 11th floor (almost the penthouse!), we have excellent views over the City, our own rooms for the first time in 18 months, the smallest dishwasher you have ever seen, a lounge come kitchen come diner, a general lack of working lightbulbs, touch lamps (a very exciting find) and le piece de la resistance - electric blankets!

Amy is working for the Government Department of Travel and I am working at Telecom - nout to interesting by all accounts but I did manage to get me a job in the busiest bar in town just to challenge my ability to survive on a lot less hours sleep! It's mostly been fun so far though, contending with drunk people who think they know better than you, who also think its a good idea to get it on in the disabled bathroom?! Or against the bar?! Or in the confessional booth with only a very small curtain for protection...

I think the blog for the next eight weeks is going to become one big thank you letter to the wonderful Emily and Paul - part of the Campbell Soup Clan don't ya know :) We have only been here for a few weeks and they have already offered us a haven from the world of backpacking, homecooked food, a Marian Keyes library service, our very own private tour guide, a lesson or two in the All Blacks and tried and tested, guaranteed good restaurants to go to. It has been superb and it only gets better with the promise of weekends away, parties and I even heard the word mansion mentioned at one point!! THANK YOU!

Leaving on a jet plane....AGAIN!

And then to Kiwi Land...well not quite - there was a brief interval in between arriving in Darwin and departing Christchurch. This part of my life is called trying to squeeze the thus far untravelled three quarters of Australia into just under four weeks...mission impossible?!

Two cheap flights and a day long trip on one of the most famous train journeys in the world (although don't expect any Australian to have heard about it) - The Ghan and we have come full circle and arrived back in Melbourne. A few points to be made on the in-between moment...

We paid a painful amount of money to do a one day tour to Kakadu in the Northern Territory which turned out to be an OAP spectacular...I am all for air conditioned buses and walking at a snail's pace so that everyone can keep up but not when it means we have to scrimp and save on the amount that you see...so in the end we didn't see all that much of the park, the river and some aboriginal rock art , we had to hang out with the sandal and sock wearing crew and the day was topped off with wine and cheese...brilliant I thought - I'll get my moneys worth here OR I'll eat so much cheese that I end up being sick...niice! It didn't even compare to the previous day when we paid a fraction of the cost to drive through all the same countryside to go and see the Jumping Crocs and also managed to see Sea Eagles (almost seagulls if you say it but defintely not quite as exciting), Kites, baby crocs AND the added bonus of holding Medusa the Python (the prospect of dying at the hands of the crocs was enough for Ayms without throwing the Python into the mix as well :)

Our three day outback tour to Uluru managed to begin on my birthday, pleasingly at 6am! Not the best time to encounter our fellow traveller Ian who talked a lot and loudly and disturbed the already difficult task of tryingt to sleep on a mini bus. The rest of the 21 people consisted of Amy's neighbour who was ALWAYS the last one to get on the bus due to some fabulous photo opportunity that no-one else had spotted, Frenchie - hilarious and did all the walks with her handbag in tow!! the little blonde German dude, the tall blonde German dude, the German dude with bad hair...you get the idea! We became professional stirrers, ate camel bolognaise, slept out under the stars in the freezing cold, climbed and walked over every rock formation we could find, watched the sun set and rise from every possible angle and of course there was the obligatory goon. All of this ended in another drunken night out back in Alice Springs and therefore another hungover flight the following morning to Perth.


To the person or persons who suggested that when you pack your backpack you seperate everything with plastic bags....you deserve to be shot or worse, you deserve to have to spend a night in a dorm with these people who took your advice whole-heartedly. Because in the same breathe these are the people that always feel the need to get up at 6:30am.....AHHHHHHH!


Imagine the most annoying fly in the world...then imagine this fly went and got himself a training camp for all the other flies in the world and they all graduated as equally as annoying flies...then imagine these flies congregated in West Australia.


From Perth we hired a car which I did under the pretence of being 24 - apparently the birthday bypassed me so much I haven't even acknowledged the turning of 25?! Aye well, luckily the guy in the shop spotted the error and discounted the relevant amount of money off the bill - a good job really since we chipped the windscreen (not my fault) and had to pay for the damage. We were planning to go a little way North then a little way South but in the end decided to follow the sunshine and went all the way to Monkey Mia via Kalbarri, Pinnacles, River Hutt Province, York and Freemantle. A lot of boring straight roads and not a lot to keep us entertained in between places apart from our brand new purchase of a Flirty Dancing CD - played to death by the end of the trip. We had one hairy moment when we almost ran out of petrol on a stretch of road with no service station for 110km, luckily brainbox and brainboxer had the initiative to drive at a snails pace in order to convserve petrol - this didn't stop the mild rush of panic though when the red warning light came on and we still had 30km to go...AHHH! Luckily we rolled into the services and carried on our merry way now free from the fear we may have to hitch a ride with some unshaven-ute-driving-outback-loving-aussie!

The final days were spent in the company of the one and only Miss DIbby - exciting news people she is due to be moving to the UK so you will all have the pleasure of meeting our new-found friend :) We ate Grill'd burgers, listened to Paul play guitar, went out in St Kilda - just like the old days and a good reminder of all the good stuff we are once again leaving behind.

But who in these circumstances could not at least be touched from time to time by the ridiculous joy of existing?

I would really like to put the last few months of Brisbane into some sort of blog but I fear it is going to descend into comments like 'Don't be shy, show us your pie', ginger nips, the fork shortage, the naked carwash, Jesus...in Dirty Dancing?! and 'Who the *&!@ is Dennis?', oh, and I would have to tell you about the dude who ate a packet of noodles and SIXTEEN fish fingers for his dinner one night!!!! and there would news about some of the worst television we have ever seen including 'Who wants to be a Superhero?' (after watching that show, not me) and a race against forty midgets and elephant to see who could pull and airplane a certain distance the quickest?! (The elephant won by the way) and after all that no-one would want to read this blog again...so to save you from the boredom and us from all the explanation I shall move on quickly...

So Miss Nicole was the first to leave, to soften the blow Em and Saul moved back into the hostel and a couple more months past and James left and the next day it was our turn! Our last night 'party' consisted of Amy going to work, and me dressing up like a pink flamingo to go and see...that's right...P!nk! Thumbs up to all involved, Vicky for forgetting her I.D, Em and Vic for the ridiculous outifts, Vic for getting caught with her glo in the dark bangles and having them confiscated and Em for smuggling hers in...arriving back at the hostel we found all the guys completely drunk, what followed was a world cup pool tournament, goon shots, many-an-important conversation, P!nk reenactments...and finally the decision to go to bed! For some reason I decided to set the alarm for 9:56am when checkout was at 10am! Surely, four minutes is plenty of time to get up, pack everything we own and get out of the room, no Ayms? Turns out Saul knocked on the door at 9:54am and that was plenty of time...sleeping in the clothes from the night before really helped speed things up :)

So more sad g'byes in Brisbane...like leaving home once again, it never gets any easier but mine and Amy's large amount of luggage caused much amusement and saved us all the tears :) I have to say Amy even closing her bag was against all laws of nature let alone shutting it and managing to attach the little rucksack on the front as well. Luckily Saul and Trev were there to chauffeur the bags to the bus so it wasn't really until we got to the airport that the "oh no, are they going to be over the limit? are they going to charge us a million dollars because of it?"


This experience was topped off when I bent down to get something out of my hand luggage (also overweight I'd say), lost the balance with the rucksack still on my back and fell over...d'oh! Between tears, Amy managed to get a picture :) The final weigh-in turned out ok - we are now up to 20.6kg (compared to 18kg in Asia!) It's all necessary stuff we swear...need it all for New Zealand :) We make it to our gate and luckily get distracted from our sadsack states by this kid who enjoyed commentating on the world around him..."plane"..."plane"..."plane"..."plane", the funny bit was when the trucks went past..."truck"..."truck"..."truck"..."truck", unfortunately he hadn't quite gotten a handle on the TR part of the word and it came out a little differently if you get what I mean - I think his Dad was pleased when the planes went by again!


With our money-saving heads on we thought that since we were arriving at the airport at 1am then we would sleep there the night and go to the hostel in the morning - the actual sleeping part wasn't all that bad...like a bizarre movie when you open your eyes every hour or so and the scene has completely changed from the last time; men in suits, men snoring, families bedding down for the night...now here's where the plan failed, the shuttle bus only shows up when the big flights come in which would have meant staying at the airport for another four hours...no thanks! So we ended up spending the money we would have saved on the accomodation on a taxi - brilliant!


Finally we make it Darwin City and our beds :) Then Amy gets ill...Gem turns into a big ball of sweat and it's like we never left Asia! We have already been to the Deckchair cinema (it does what it says on the tin!) and got eaten by mossies (doesn't say that on the tin!) and we managed to get there early enough to sit through the Top End Tourism Committee meeting...seriously if this is an accurate insight into the folk of Darwin then it's a good job we are only staying for five days...the most interesting guy was the man who is involved with a film to do with Darwin and Nicole Kidman...but then again he had no personality so I'm not sure anyone was actually listening to his drone.


We found the 'place to be' on our first night - called The Vic and ended up taking part in the quiz. There was just the two of us on our team (FC Hammer)...we wont count the guy standing at the bar behind us who gave us all the answers :) Unfortunately it was one of those quizzes that involved participation and at one point or another me and Amy both ended up on the stage "playing games"...not really our style but the dancing afterwards was much fun until they played the birdie song..................then we had to leave!

News Just in...Siamese Twins Seperated for a Two Week Trial

Soup,

In your absence the skies of Brisbane turned grey and the rains came down - much to the delight of the Dambusters I am sure! Fortunately though we are now back to sunshine :)

Yesterday on the way to work I had to stand at the traffic lights for a full three minutes waiting for the green man even though there was no cars on the road (apart from one lone police car also waiting at the lights)...I feared if I used my initiative and crossed without the aid of the green light the police dude my jump out of his car and scream something like "freeze! this is the jay-walking investigation unit and you are under arrest for not spending half your life waiting at traffic lights when there is clearly no need"...love Brisbane!

Oh, and the saga of the annoying roomies continues...after my joyous 12 hour shift yesterday I got home to my (just realised how dodgy that may look to the folk at home - oops!) bed and just as I am about to drop off the girl above me's phone goes off...it was like some vibrating Dad's Army theme tune and I was totally confused by it all...THEN...she answered the phone!?!!?!?!?!? What a loser...I was shocked and appalled...so then she hung up and I settled in again to be awoken two seconds later since it appears she was just calling the person back...HELLO! It was at this point when she decided she should probably take her and her telephone coversation outside of the room...

Oh my goodness! Right, miss you heaps and just had the most manic day at work EVER - service nil, cheerfulness of staff double nil, efficiency of service off the scale (at the wrong end!!) I got ferrero rocher though for my artistic chalk board writing talents...woudl say I'd save you one but two weeks is a long way away ;)

Catch ya later Belle...hello to the Robster xx

PS. There is now an egg timer in the shower - I think it is four minutes long - I failed miserably this morning at keeping within the time limits btu this afternoon's shower was much more successful ;)

What do you do when there is a rat in your kitchen?

Our next instalment of “I’M VERY EXCITED” was our trip to Moreton Island with the gang from the hostel – Amy “oooo-ooooh, eeeeee-ooooh”, Nicole “I just farted”, Gemma “I’m going to marry this box of goon”, Em “I’m not a !@#$ing donkey”, Jonny the idiot, Saul “I hate having my picture taken”, “Deadly” James and moi. It was an early start and we were all gathered at 7am – a little too loud and hyper for the early hour and (I assume) all the other hostel guests. When our pickup was 30 seconds late we started panicking…

Side Story…
Saul and Jamie work at the hostel and have been playing Handy Andy for the last week or so – painting etc. They took the initiative one day to remove the skanky old cabinet in the men’s bathroom and put it in the skip. Christine – the owner thought this was hilarious…since the cabinet was actually an antique (in a men’s bathroom?!) - A ‘Shabby Chic’ don’t you know! They managed to save the cabinet from the skip and returned it to its home. Then James decided to paint the antique since it was looking a bit worn (as antiques are supposed to, no?!) So we were planning to do a runner for the day before Christine got the chance to berate Jamie for un-antiquing her antique! Luckily, she thinks everything Saul and Jamie do is priceless so she didn’t say anything (maybe she realised that after years in a men’s bathroom no doubt being ‘sprinkled’ on and half a day in a skip really wasn’t the best care package for a Shabby Chic so at the end of the day it really doesn’t matter if the bottom half is sanded blue and the top half is Dulux bright white glossy acrylic)

Day packs and goon in hand the only thing that was missing was our trusty Ghetto Blaster. Eventually the 4x4 showed up with our chauffeur for the day, Justin, for the purposes of this exercise we will call him Hungover Justin! I’m not sure who was more pleased we were all on this trip together – us, the overly excitable A Team, or Justin who had to do very little schmoozing/commentary/tour guide like activities all day since we pretty much entertained ourselves…although I am guessing our incessant noise, laughing and occasional screaming wouldn’t have gone unnoticed by a sore head! The ride to the ferry (said in a bizarre pikey Leicester accent) was not as smooth as we would have liked and Em had trouble staying upright for this part of the journey – it didn’t bode well for the day-trip-to-the-world’s-second-largest-sand-island-including-a-lot-of-bumpy-driving part of the day. Not to worry Amy’s general upper body area was on hand for Em to steady herself with every time we went over a hump and much to everyone’s surprise it was in fact Saul that almost lost his head through the roof when we was doing an energetic impression of Em bouncing around the car and we hit a bump! Free drinks and biscuits on the trip over really perked us up (some more) and after Nicole’s 2.5 sugars kicked in she joined Em’s “talk as loudly as you can” campaign! And her own “let’s shake people who aren’t being as loud/excited as me!” campaign.

Our first activity was Sand Tobogganing. The idea of which sounded very appealing when you are looking at photos of people elegantly sliding down sand dunes with an awesome view to take in on the way…in reality you walk to the top of a sand dune – no mean feat with a piece of ply wood (or part of a wardrobe) under your arm, then stand contemplating all the things that could go wrong and wonder how anyone in the photos ever made it look that easy. Maybe it was just that none of us were particularly good at it, but no-one got to the bottom of the hill and stood up jumping for joy and ran to the top of the dune to rush down one more time – in fact one by one we subjected ourselves to a face full of sand with comedy results (my only regret is that we were all too considerate of each others pain at this point to take any photos :) Dare devil Nicole went first and survived mostly unscathed. Then Jonny, then somehow I got roped into going – I never knew your eyes could fill with anything other than tears…somehow I managed to fit a desert of sand in there as well…

You can’t do anything once you get to the bottom - you can’t get up because you can’t see to go anywhere, you can’t open your eyes for fear the avalanche of sand sat on your eyebrows will come cascading down into them, you can’t wipe the sand away because your hands and clothes are also covered in sand and since sand tobogganing with a rucksack full of useful goodies (like water, towel, insurance certificate, goggles, cotton buds, ear plugs…) to help you out you are stuck improvising with the small square of material on your person that maybe didn’t get hit with sand and hope that the sand monster which has escaped from inside you will miraculously disappear. We were a right mess - mascara down our faces (AMY YOU’VE GOT SOME MAKEUP UNDER YOUR EYES!), cuts and scrapes, sore eyes, spitting sand…it is safe to say we all looked like Jiggin’ Schnitzels and we all could have been used as human sandpaper (maybe to help sort out the Shabby Chic cabinet were it required!)

The other unfortunate thing that happened at this point was that Jonny lost his wallet and his phone, which had been safely (?) tucked away in his pocket whilst he was ripping up the sand. The wallet was recovered however the phone has been lain to rest in the cemetery of sand, never to be seen again.

Another bumpy ride later and we made it to the Fountain of Youth (according to our tour guide) – a cove on the Island with a wall of rock acting as a barricade against the huge breaking waves. Good job it was there since the wash from the waves had enough force enough to push you around the rock pool and your bikini bottoms round your ankles J Either way we were all incredibly grateful to be able to wash some of the sand and sweat and blood off from the mornings tobogganing.

Then what we had all been waiting for – lunch! The first time all morning we shut up for longer than a minute.

After soaking up some more of the fountain of youth (mostly in the form of sand collecting in our pants) we headed off to the North Headland and a stroll around the lighthouse. We saw some turtles…from a distant…well, from the top of the cliff…not even the cameras maximum zoom could pick those babies up very well J

Next we headed to the Blue Lagoon and another much needed soak – the lake here is full of tea tree and is supposedly very good for your skin, so we frolicked around in it for a while…playing a rather violent game of Piggy in the Middle with a Frisbee (and very extensive rule book!) in which Emma actually hit Amy in the face and made her bleed whilst trying to drown her so as to regain possession. Oh, and Saul got another wack to the head too! We are expecting to blossom into glowing specimens of our former selves in the next few days with all the youthfulness and tea tree…we’ll let you know.

And that was us – the ferry ride home seemed to take forever and we were fading fast it has to be said…even the free afternoon tea couldn’t liven us up at this point. Shame since the plan for the evening wasn’t to go back to the hostel and go to bed but to head out to wish Nicole a proper farewell with some drunken memories attached! Needless to say out came the goon and we were soon all back on it and being utterly ridiculous…Bye Nicole – you are an absolute darling and thank you for making Brisbane sooo much fun J We’ll catch you in your Wolverhampton village sometime soon chicken – enjoy the party xx

To the left to the left, everything you own in a box to the left

It’s been another little while but finally we have something to say! We have officially survived one year away travelling round the world and are now on the home straight…six months to go people and the FC Hammerettes will be back touring in your town J

The next landmark event worth mentioning (in amongst all this working we are so eagerly doing!) was Easter weekend which saw the Looky Ladies reunited in Melbourne for 60 hours of unadulterated fun! That’s Miss Dibby for anyone who needs a reminder…the third Trevor’s angel – she is once, twice, three times a lady!

After a particularly late night on Thursday for both Amy and I at separate ends of Brisbane town we started the long weekend off by waking up at 9:50am and having to be packed and moved out by 10am…even our permanent residency at the hostel couldn’t sway a couple more sneaky hours in bed from the man in charge - James L So we set up camp in the downstairs T.V. room and didn’t move for the rest of the day – since we had all of our stuff with us to be put into storage it was a good eye-opener as to how much we have collected over the last few months and how it is all never going to fit back into the rucksack! Parents – prepare for some post!

We eventually made it to Melbourne, to Spencer Street, to Prahran, to Chapel Street and to Dibby J Since all three of us had started the weekend a little too early – we decided to skip the planned booze cruise and had a pyjama party instead – lots to catch up on and all that good stuff! In fact it was a relatively un-drunken weekend all round and surprisingly most relaxing. We played lawn bowls AKA sat in the park, ate good food and went for afternoon drinks in the sunshine. Aside from apparently being invisible to every other pedestrian in Melbourne who you had to practically be standing on top of before they moved out the way (and not even then sometimes) and it was every taxi driver’s first day on the job - it was ace - eh! Amy and I went to see John Mayer on Saturday night who was brilliant as ever – no sign of Miss Simpson in the crowd but Amy did spy Dean from Australian Pop Idol on her way to the bar – very exciting (for us!) :-/

It was a relatively un-drunken weekend until about Sunday night the evening began with the sunset over St Kilda beach, a civilised dinner party with chilli from a can (don’t knock it till you’ve tried it) and high quality goon and it ended in a trolley and a taxi ride home at 4:45am. What time do we have to leave to go to the airport again Ayms? Oh, that’s right – 6am – genius. An hour later and I had to practically beat Amy to get her off the couch which she and Dibby had collapsed on after giving up on trying to play the 80’s dancing video at 5am. Somehow we managed to get packed and into a taxi on time and my ever-lasting image of Miss Dibs will be her standing on the pavement half asleep, half drunk, wrapped in a blanket and singing J That day, amongst the more appropriate items of clothing and bedding she put her remote control through the washing machine - eh!

We got on the Skybus and it was at this point that I decided to check the flight information?! Just to add to the day’s fun, turns out our flight is scheduled a whole 25minutes earlier than what I thought it was…panic stations everyone! Another story to add to the ever-growing list of ‘running through the airport’ anecdotes we seem to becoming the lead roles in. We did manage to find some time to spend a ridiculous amount of dollars on a 2 hour old egg and bacon muffin and a stale croissant! Where’s MacD’s when you need it huh?! Not in Melbourne airport for future reference.

When we arrived back at the hostel we found out we had been put in a dorm with some smelly boys and quickly set to work revising that decision…we were fortunate enough to get back into OUR room the next night and have settled right back in since J We spent the rest of the day recuperating in the T.V. lounge, like we had never been away.

Never forget where you've come here from, Never pretend that its all real, Someday soon this will be someone elses dream

I'm sure the next question on your lips is aside from all the working - how exactly are Gem and Amy having fun without spending any money...we play cards - mostly Cheat which I'm not so good at but Amy is worse, something about a huge grin on her face when she lays the cards down! Sh1thead (no Gravesend School for Boys rules here I'm afraid Kit!), watching gheckos stalk insects, sweating stemming from the walk to work (with the aim of saving more money), laughing at Irish guys and English girl, drunk on goon having discussions on religion and history of own countries, watching Irish guys fight outside hostel (not as interesting as it sounds), betting on which Irish guy will be kicked out the next morning for being rowdy, betting on the time Clint and Will actually made it work at the weekends.

Brisbane is in a drought and is apparently destined to run out of water in two weeks according to our hostel (reality is 18 months) so you are only allowed two minute showers, to compensate for the lack of time allowed in shower people take several a day! We joined a library with a messed up "locating book" system (trying to recall lessons in library terminology but cannot) where you inevitably find the book you are looking for, not on the shelf in alphabetical order but on the 'recently returned section' AKA 'these are the books that folk have dropped off and we cannot be bothered to put them away so you should spend your afternoon looking through this pile on the off chance that the book you are looking for has just been returned', must mention that this section of library takes up most of library!

We are now the pikeys that raid the free food basket everyday in the hope of winnning lottery and finding bag of pasta or spaghetti! Woohoo, a saving of 85cents :) We played Ludo one night as well which was grand although took forever, anyone remember is it one dice or two you are supposed to play with? We go to bed most nights about 9:30-10pm and still wake up tired?! And the reason (without knowing it) that we came to Brisbane - so that Amy's dreams from 14 years ago could come true - when she met Take That in the Queens Street Mall! I've never seen anyone so excited about anything as she comes strolling down the road brandishing a signed CD for the bargain price of $6!

...Life would lose it's thrill...

Amy and I have lain to rest the magic skateboards for a while and have substituted them with work - that's right we are back to cultivating the bags under the eyes and trying to work as much as possible so we can earn as much as possible so we can save as much as possible and travel as much as possible!!

We have settled into Brisbane, Brissie, Bris-Bane, Bris Vegas fairly well - the question on most people's lips is why? Well here, they have jobs and many other people like us, who also have no money to have a life and have to resort to the goon for a good time (Defn:- GOON; Cheap wine bought by the 4litre box, tastes rank until about the 6th glass by which time all your taste buds have recoiled into submission, also made from fish and eggs or fish eggs, but is incredibly cheap if not mentioned that before - 5 British pounds for four litres). In theory there will be less temptation here to go out and spend the much needed bucks?! We'll keep you posted.

Week one - Amy, reception extraordinaire found a job in the agency she signed up with and Hays is now much better for it, the non-existent room-booking system has been whipped into shape (as have all the staff who use it!) and basically they all love her and think she is brilliant - as do we all. I started my "career" off in Brisbane as a Data Entry Slave - job to last anywhere between two weeks and three months, since data entry is my forteit I managed to finish the assignment in a week which didn't work out quite so well for me because then I was unemployed.

Week 2, Amy settles further into her job and I embrace unemployment and contemplate how long it will take before the desperation is enough to put Macd's on the list of potential employers?! Besides working, we are back to fulfilling our Recommended Daily Allowances of films/Will & Grace/SOuthpark/Family Guy/Whose Line is it Anyway? And we are very active members of the NO NOODLES CAMPAIGN!

I finally got a job in the offices of Roche Mining...am project assistant or office mathematician as am fast becoming known - something to with a maths degree?! I'm not sure where they got that from! T'is always good to see that from office to office wherever you are in the world the bitching and moaning is always a constant comfort! I am ashamed to admit there is a Scottish guy here who in the beginning I could not understand - I soon came to realise that it was less of the accent, more of the sense of humour I was having trouble picking up on, seriously, it is sometimes a good thing that people laugh at their own jokes so you know when you should be laughing along with them - ha ha ha! And just like buses - as soon as you've got one another one shows up, turns out though it is just about possible to take both buses in the same week and still survive the journey! So I now work as a waitress (in a cocktail bar...not really!) in a restaurant called the jazzy cat cafe and Amy managed to get a job in an Irish bar just in time for Paddy's Day, she worked 12 hours with half an hour break and came home with no feet...Amy Campbell Soup - I don't think I can do the horrors you endured justice myself so if you would like to explain to our fans back home nows the time.... :) (Amy says ?!&*!!?%@!?) ....This prompted me to go shopping and I managed to buy a woolly hat(?!) even though a) I have no budget for woolly hats and b) it's around 30 degrees here everyday. BUT it will come in handy when we get to New Zealand - managed to find some cheap flights at the end of June - "we're doin' it Harry, we're really doin' it!"

Everyone meet everyone...Being in one spot for three months definitely has an upside - that we meet some more quirky people! There is/was Clint and Will - Car washers for Europcar, always late for work, comedians, potential married couple and have now left to pursure other car washing ventures in Cairns. Gemma AKA Arietty from the Borrowers (TV Programme, not film), her man Johnny and they both work in the Irish Bar around the corner from the hostel (very useful). The Fabulous Nicole(...papa?) She is not french but from Birmingham, had an accident with some hair bleach and a bag full of clothes once, works as night manager/irish mob controller at the hostel, given up anything sweet for lent and is pretending to be on a fresh food diet recommended by Irish Jamie. Irish Jamie, our first roommate and a joy to be around, I can even understand him! A labourer by day and night manager of the hostel by night. Kate, daytime manager of hostel has since moved on to Noosa to avoid evil stepmother/owner of the hostel.

Then there is the day to day unexpected entertainment provided by new people in our room...The Air-Con Wars - how long into the night will it be before someone switches the air-con off and how long into the night before someone switches the fan off, then exactly how similar to a sauna will our room be like in the morning. We had two Canadian girls stay - they were excellent, Adam and Eve - chat-a-lots and hung pair of pants on a hanger for all to see?! German guy who fell off top bunk the first night! Most of the above also had trouble figuring out how to open the door to our room, which admittedly has two handles but still isnt that complicated to figure out - still, it has caused me and Amy much amusement.

Since you've been gone...

The Australian Government, Canberra has issued this statement:

We would like to send our utmost appreciation to a gentleman called Adam Barton, before his visit to our country - Australia and especially Queensland was in a drought for coming up seven years. Scientists believe the water would have run out in a couple of weeks (others believe this is just a scare tactic on posters in hostels to discourage backpackers from taking showers longer than two minutes) if something was not done. Then as fate would have it, Mr Barton graced us with his presence and sure enough the rains came with him.

Weathermen around the world have been baffled by this - whether it was stowed in his rucksack, brought on by the rain dancing or from one of those many 'out of body' experiences he seemed to have twice daily (some people believe these "naps" were in fact visits to the rain Gods) either way we thank you from the bottom of our hearts, the water supplies have been replenished and we now have enough water to get by another seven years.

See ya later aligator

TO Byron Bay and sure enough some sunshine. Adam, pro-body-boarder whipped out some moves in the sea - it is the quickest we have seen Adam move since he got here, the prospect of sun, sea, sand, no rain, surf...the excitement lasted all of 24 hours by which time boredom of the beach, boarding, sunbaking had set in - who said girls were difficult to please?

That evening we took a romantic stroll along the beach, well more like to the beach where it was dark and windy so we opted for more food and drink (sounds like we should be about the size of a house now right?) and then Cheeky Monkeys. And guess what night it is...!? Coyote Ugly night! I don't think it was a bad thing that by the itme we got there we had missed all the girls cos Adam didn't have too much space left for extra photos after the last incident with girls dancing on the bar! Hopefully those 300 that you took the first time will be enough to keep you going Adamski! I crashed out at about 2am and so am not too sure how the others got on but CCTV footage places them on the steps outside the bathroom nearer 3 or 4am scoffing cold pizza and warm beer...happy days :)

We managed to get ourselves another room next to the reception and all the noise! But it was the overly conscientious cleaner that finally got us out of our beds the next day. Adam went to hire a bike - well he told the guy he wanted a bike then went to the bank to get the deposit...by the time he got back the guy had given the bike away to someone else, charming! Body boarding it is then! By the time me and Amy got to the beach and the allocated meeting point, Adam was nowhere to be seen. We scoured the beach for a blue towel and pair of trainers, then we scoured the beach for a pasty white slim fella but found neither. Eventually we gave up and started sunbathing, he emerged from nowhere with a bike helmet in tow. He looked a little tired at that point but that was nothing compared to when he got back to the hostel covered in oil and dirt - good bike ride to the lighthouse dude?

Back to Brisbane and a much better hostel (well, a room really far away from reception, and air-con) which is now mine and Amy's home. We spent the day doing chores, presents, photos then took a boat trip through the city. We were pretty tired from the hectic schedule of eating/sleeping/eating etc so nap #406 of the hols and we finally made it out in the evening for the last supper (before the noodle diet starts again) and a (not-so) classy backpackers bar where we danced stupidly, sang badly, drank too much, Adam took some photos, the bouncer didn't appreciate Adam's photography skills and we left shortly after that, noone is sure whether that decision was forced or not! Hmmm!

And that's it...l'histoire d'Adam...he left Oz with a very heavy bag (we hope you all appreciated the effort that went into buying and getting all that wine home!?) and once again me and Ayms were alone :(

Just like I predicted...

We ran into (it was planned) Amy's Aunt Linda and Uncle Alec in Cairns much to our delight...and the delight of our stomachs. We went for some civilised food and drinks and it was a most pleasant evening - to Alec and Linda, thank you thank you thank you :) After that, Adam was ready to be horizontal again so off to bed we go.

The next day - we still had high hopes that the rain would die down, the floods would disappear, the roads would open and we would still manage to get a bus to Airlie Beach for our Whitsundays Trip...so Adam booked a flight from Airlie to Brisbane so he would make his flight home in time. "A little hasty" you may be thinking - well that indeed was the case, it's only money right?! We spent the afternoon swimming in the lagoonand went for an 'as much as you can pile onto a small plate' asian buffet. In the evening we headed to P.J. O'Briens for a couple, they had a live band and for Adam...ladies dancing on the bar! He got a little snap happy but unfortunately missed the moment in the competition (for non-professional dancers, i.e. drunk girls from the crowd) when a girl just fell off the bar! One second she was there, the next she was gone. It was a good night although we all managed to leave the bar alone with no bearings whatsoever. I was the first to get back to the hostel and usefully sent Amy a minute by minute text update of Adam's whereabouts...Adam is not here, Adam is not here, Adam is still not here, Adam is here and taking photos of my bum!?

Another rainy day and Macd's was the only thing going to get us through the morning, in fact food was the only thing going to get us through the day...we tried to upload some of Adam's 10million megapixel photos but managed to do about 6 in an hour - so back to the hostel and back to napping/wacthing tele/eating pizza, mmm! In the absence of any sun on Monday (the last day we could travel to Airlie Beach) Plan B went out the window as did Adam's pre-booked flight. Plan C - back to the Bellview Motel reception desk and the lovely Betty and Evan. I'm sure Evan was incredibly pleased after all our to-ing and fro-ing to hear the words cancel cancel cancel! Our only saving grace in the midst of it all was the the lady who took our booking for the Whitsundays didn't take our Credit Card details otherwise we would have been out of pocket by $700! Instead we used the money to leave Cairns and head back to Brisbane - a wise decision we thought. Plan Z to drive to Byron Bay where the sunshine is almost guaranteed :) The long awaited departure flight was all good, Adam 'the charmer' Barton decided he deserved the window seat on the return flight since on the way out he had shut the visor and gone to sleep.

In Brisbane we settled into a hostel for the night, got a room right next to reception (which opened at 7am) with thin walls, no air-con but instead a fan which moved slower than Adam on a slow day. So we left and headed out for some - you guessed it, food. Brisbane is another Australian city which has fallen prey to the myth that people don't need to eat after 8pm unless it's in a really expensive restaurant or in Macd's. We eventually found a random Asian/Burger place willing to serve us and Adam even got a side of pickled salty cabbage, mmm s'nice! We stopped for a couple of drinks on the way back in the hope of knocking ourselves out so as not to be disturbed by the reception opening but alas it was not meant to be, 7am and the phone starts ringing and ringing and ringing, the hostel isn't really that big yet the reception guy manages to be on the other side of the world everytime it rings and takes an age to get to it - WE HAVE OUR OWN ALARM CLOCK THANKS VERY MUCH NOW SHUT UP AND _____ ___!